Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.